When you heat up your work for soldering and reach the temperature at which solder flows, you are also creating oxides on the surface of your metal that mar its appearance. In November, we dealt with removing a particularly tricky oxide called fire scale. Other surface oxides are easier to remove, and for these the jeweler can use an acid solution commonly called pickle, which will also remove the residue of flux at the same time. You can also remove these oxides by abrasion using files or abrasive paper, but using a pickle is more efficient. (more…)

Beginner-to-intermediate project.

Fourth in a series of 12 ring repair projects.
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Jewelry brought in for repair reflects the increasingly competitive marketplace for inexpensive fine jewelry. With care, however, you can repair it and keep your customer happy.

A word of caution: The procedures shown here represent standard practices commonly used by jewelers across the country. Nonetheless, working with acids, solvents, torches, sharp tools, spinning tools, etc. can be hazardous. Learn about potentially harmful procedures and take the appropriate steps to protect yourself. (more…)

Knowing how to professionally install Superfit shanks for enlarged finger joints demonstrates another aspect of quality in your shop. (more…)

Laser welding improves overall shop proficiency while increasing quality for repair, reconstruction and jewelry manufacturing. (more…)

Many rings incorporate yellow and white gold elements to produce a rich contrast of warm and cool colors. But when both colors are incorporated into the same shank, the bench jeweler who sizes the ring faces a challenge. To size up a two-tone ring, the jeweler must: (more…)

Sitting at your bench one day, you reach for the next repair envelope, examine the contents and read the instructions. The envelope says, Name: Mrs. JB Tipton. Article: Lady’s yellow ring marked “14k” w/3 clear brilliants, approx. 3.2mm.
Tips on all prongs are worn. Size 5 1/2. Instructions: Retip all with solder.” (more…)

Beginner-to-Intermediate project.

This ring was always tight on Mrs. Ghirardelli’s finger. But as she was getting ready for a party the other evening, she could barely squeeze it over her knuckle. And once it was on her finger, she noticed that the ring pinched her skin like a tight corset. (more…)

Before they invented garbage disposals, we jewelers had it easy. But since the ’50s, when the industrial revolution invaded the kitchen sink, we have been fighting back in the war against home convenience devices that eat jewelry and flatware. (more…)

1. The tools needed for this job are a hammer, a flat-headed punch or a hammer hand piece for your flex-shaft, a small round burr, and some platinum wire: You will also need either; dog-leg style burnisher or a tungsten burnisher made from a burr, as well as a wire curter and a pair of needle-nose pliers. (more…)