With the high price of gold, jewelry makers are looking to incorporate alternative metals into their lines. I frequently work with palladium and stainless steel in my shop. The following are a few tips and tricks you can use to work more effectively with these metals.

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lthough we provide cadmium-free solders, we still feel that using cadmium-free solder is a way of disguising the real problem: (more…)

With this product every ring can be expandable — even eternity bands. The Adjustable Ring System has two components: a two-piece hinge and an expansion piece. (more…)

The Adjusto Shank® is a truly adjustable shank that enables the wearer to put a ring on any finger and have it fit comfortably. Unlike other hinged shanks that have a fixed size when closed, Hoover & Strong’s Adjusto Shank® can be adjusted to many sizes. Here is how to put it together: (more…)

When you heat up your work for soldering and reach the temperature at which solder flows, you are also creating oxides on the surface of your metal that mar its appearance. In November, we dealt with removing a particularly tricky oxide called fire scale. Other surface oxides are easier to remove, and for these the jeweler can use an acid solution commonly called pickle, which will also remove the residue of flux at the same time. You can also remove these oxides by abrasion using files or abrasive paper, but using a pickle is more efficient. (more…)

Beginner-to-intermediate project.

Fourth in a series of 12 ring repair projects.
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Intermediate project. Eighth in a series of 12 ring repair projects.
Photos: Barry Blau. (more…)

Jewelry brought in for repair reflects the increasingly competitive marketplace for inexpensive fine jewelry. With care, however, you can repair it and keep your customer happy.

A word of caution: The procedures shown here represent standard practices commonly used by jewelers across the country. Nonetheless, working with acids, solvents, torches, sharp tools, spinning tools, etc. can be hazardous. Learn about potentially harmful procedures and take the appropriate steps to protect yourself. (more…)

Soldering is a skill that all bench jewelers master at an early stage in their career. Although this process soon becomes second nature, sometimes itʼs good to review the basic principles involved to remind ourselves why we do certain things. Remember, an ideal soldered joint must be strong, but at the same time invisible. (more…)

Introduction

With the Baby Boomers reaching their retirement years, the problems associated
with ring fit and finger joint swelling will become a major issue for jewelers.
This paper addresses the medical causes of swollen finger joints due to rheumatoid
and osteoarthritis and solutions for the jeweler.

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